Most of the city’s vegan restaurants feature the latest in ersatz animal flesh—tempeh meatballs, soy-chicken satay, and squid sculpted from tofu. Rahel Ethiopian Vegan Cuisine, however, specializes in stews that could have been on the menu during biblical times: split lentils, chickpeas, zucchini, and string beans, all slow cooked in spiced sauces that unlock a flavor as savory as that of pot roast.